A mug is the perfect first project for anyone learning to work with clay. It is small enough to finish in one sitting, forgiving enough to forgive a few wobbles, and useful enough that you will actually use it every morning. It also teaches you almost everything: centring, pulling walls, attaching a handle, trimming and glazing. Follow this project and you will end up with a generous 300ml mug that sits comfortably in the hand.

Start With the Right Clay and a Few Simple Tools

For a mug you want a mid-fire stoneware rather than an earthenware. Stoneware is stronger, chips less readily on the rim and takes a wide range of glazes. A smooth body with a little fine grog is easiest for beginners because it holds its shape without fighting you. Weigh out about 500g — that is plenty for a mug roughly 9cm tall and 8cm across.

You do not need much kit to begin with:

• A wire cutter for slicing clay off the block and lifting finished pots
• A wooden rib for smoothing and compressing surfaces
• A needle tool for cutting and testing wall thickness
• A wooden modelling tool or old spoon for shaping
• A small sponge and a bowl of water
• A plaster bat or board to wedge on, and something to cover pots with while they dry

If you do not have a wheel, you can pinch and coil the body instead — the handle instructions below stay exactly the same.

Wedge the Clay, Then Centre It

Wedging removes air pockets and evens out moisture, which is the difference between a wall that pulls smoothly and one that tears. Push the clay down and away with the heel of your hand, roll it back, repeat for a minute or two until it feels consistent and slightly warm. Shape it into a rounded ball.

Slap the ball onto the centre of the wheel head and press it down firmly. Splash a little water on your hands, never pour it onto the clay — too much water turns the surface to slurry and weakens the wall. Set the wheel to a medium speed, brace your elbows against your thighs and press inwards from both sides, pushing the clay up into a cone and then down again. Repeat three or four times. You will know it is centred when the clay spins without any wobble under your hands.

Open the Ball and Pull the Walls

Press your thumbs into the centre and open the clay outwards until the base is about 1cm thick. Check it with the needle tool — a small hole will tell you the truth. Widen the opening to roughly 7cm, keeping the base flat and even.

Now pull the walls. With the wheel at a slower speed, pinch the wall between your thumb inside and your fingers outside, starting at the base and drawing upwards in one steady movement. Repeat two or three times, each pull thinning the wall a little more. Aim for 6–8mm, leaving the rim slightly thicker than the rest so it does not become sharp.

Once the height is right, shape the profile. A gentle belly that tapers slightly towards the rim gives a mug a pleasant, settled feel. Compress the outside with the wooden rib and tidy the rim with a damp sponge.

Trim the Base and Pull the Handle

Cut the mug from the wheel with the wire and leave it, covered loosely with plastic, until it is leather hard — firm enough to handle without denting, usually a few hours or overnight. Turn it upside down and trim a shallow foot ring, leaving a rim about 5mm wide for the mug to stand on.

Pull the handle from the same clay so it shrinks at the same rate. Roll a sausage about the thickness of your thumb, then draw it downwards between your thumb and fingers, working from the middle outwards to taper both ends. Dampen your hand sparingly. Curve the handle into a comfortable arc — it should look like a question mark rather than a hook — and set it aside to firm up for twenty minutes.

Attach the Handle and Dry Slowly

Score both the handle ends and the mug where they will meet, then paint on a little slip made from the same clay. Press the top of the handle just below the rim and the bottom about two-thirds of the way down. Blend the top join with your finger or a wooden tool so it looks grown rather than glued. Support the mug on its side on a rolled-up cloth while the joins set.

Slow drying is the single most important step for a handle that stays on. Cover the mug loosely with a plastic bag for three or four days, letting the air in gradually, until it is bone dry and room temperature to the touch.

Bisque, Glaze and Fire

Fire the mug to around 1000°C for a bisque firing. Afterwards, smooth any rough patches with a little wet-and-dry paper and wipe off the dust.

For glazing, choose a food-safe, lead-free glaze. Dip the mug or brush on three thin coats, and always wipe the foot ring clean so the pot does not stick to the kiln shelf. Glaze fire to the temperature your glaze recommends, usually between 1220°C and 1260°C.

When it comes out, tap the rim gently — a clear ring means a sound pot. Fill it with tea, hold it in both hands, and you will feel exactly why potters keep making mugs.